Nairobi runs on money. It is
the most money centered place I have ever been. It is also corrupt, from the
highest to lowest level. Many are out for personal gain alone and the practice
has made it inefficient and resistant to change in just about every sector of
daily living. People would rather write business transactions out on receipts
with carbon papers than have a computerized cashier machine because it might
possibly put them out of work.Driving in Nairobi is chaos! Why put up traffic lights or speed limits when
they’ll be ignored? So the matatus, taxis and personal vehicles end up in
traffic jams that waste 2 hours for a 20 minute trip. An appointment will be
honored or not- or you can wait three hours only to be told that you must come
back tomorrow. My colleague and I wanted to volunteer to rock and socialize
abandoned babies on the maternity floor of a large city hospital that had been begging the public for volunteers. We were ushered to several offices and
then, finally, to the Public Relations Officer. He listened to our request and
said he would get back with us the next day. It would require one phone call.
Three weeks later- when our time was short and we could no longer volunteer- he
got back with us. It seemed not to matter that we had written a letter of
introduction weeks before we came, which he said he had not seen but which was,
in fact, on his desk. And hotels may charge additional costs at will. It made me
furious and frustrated. Worse, we were often met with,” I don’t know.” Or just
“No.” “May I speak with the manager? Is she in?” “I don’t know.” “Can you call
her and see?” “No. I don’t have her number.” “But you work here, correct? And
you SHOULD have her number, don’t you think?” “Well, I don’t have it and
besides, I can’t call her.” “Why?” "Um, I don’t have any more minutes and the
land line is broken…” Which brings us to the phone situation……
Everyone must have a cell phone in Africa. In downtown
Nairobi, there is a kiosk of land line phones that run half a city block. None
of them work. Even the cell phones seem to work irregularly. Daily allotments of
“minutes” have to be purchased from individuals on the street or at various
stores to make the cell phones work. Thus, if you run “out of minutes,” and
there is no one close by to sell you a scratch card of minutes, or you have no
money, you cannot make an outgoing call, although you can receive a call. In a
place where communication is important, this method is iffy, at best.
Since there are few computers, accessibility is relegated to
the “cyber cafés.” For 1-15 ks per minute, you can often e-mail and use the
web-except of course, when the provider is “down.” The computers are often slow
and will lose e-mails or documents in progress with no warning. It can be too
frustrating.
In 2003, current President Mwai Kibaki ran on a social
justice, equality, collaborative government and anti-corruption agenda. He
wanted to develop a “rainbow coalition” that included all Kenyans. There were
laws made emphasizing integrity and transparency. For example, there are signs
and posters in public buildings that reminding citizens that “Bribery is
illegal.”
None the less, many in power ignore the signs and ask for money "to make the transaction go more easily.The good news is that an increasing number of
citizens are refusing to pay bribes when demanded. It seems that
corruption is still widespread, practiced by individuals, businesses and
political entities. Nature, it has been said, abhors a vacuum. And although I
have some reservations about Christianity imposing itself in other countries, it
does offer an alternative ethical structure to challenge the “business as usual”
bribery mode. Thus Christianity’s impact on the general public has given people
perhaps more courage to report corruption when they experience it.
Life in Nairobi is time consuming, inefficient and
frustrating. An incredible amount of time is spent “waiting” or getting wrong or
no information. Everything runs on money. There are unspoken expectations for
interacting business or other transactions which slow down or obstruct the
simplest tasks. While the literacy rate is supposedly 85%, and there is great
emphasis on reading newspapers and publications, there are large gaps in
scientific information and folklore is an often accepted as scientific fact.
There seems to be great social distance between the rich and the poor with many
wealthy Kenyans unconcerned about the plights of others.
But in Kiambiu, the Leo Community is eager to learn as much
as possible, The ladies and I even ignored a hailstorm (the first in 47 years)
because we so involved in an HIV training video. They want scientific fact.
Their lives depend on it.
I met, quite accidently, a beautiful young woman who works at
Channel 2. I suspect that she comes from a wealthy family. Contrary to what I
had heard about the rich, she has devoted herself to philanthropy. She was eager
to become a contact for LECDEN and I am hoping that they will be able to
collaborate in some fund raising events together.